People are endlessly fascinated by deserts. The combination of isolation, extremity and stark beauty fires the imagination, no more so than in the Gobi Desert of China.

The desert itself sprawls throughout the western part of China, edging into Mongolia for long stretches, making it difficult to say exactly where it officially begins and ends. Adjoining the Gobi is the still more mysterious Taklamakan desert, which translates, ominously, as the place where people venture in and do not come back.

Maybe it is that edge of danger that attracts people to visit and explore desert regions. In days of yore, Silk Road traders had little option but to traverse the edges of the sand mass, as it was the quickest way for the camel trains to head to the Far West of the country, their loads ultimately destined for the Middle East and beyond.

They must have been hardy people, to walk for weeks on end between oasis towns, surviving the blistering heat of summer and the stinging winds of unpredictable sandstorms. Dotted around that desert region - then and now - are oasis towns, places where the water gushes plentifully, allowing bountiful farming.

During the Silk Road's heyday, income from passing traders brought the outposts great wealth. Merchants would fund paintings, or statues, at local temples and sacred caves, in a bid to secure good luck for their hazardous passages across tough terrain. If they returned safely, they would spend part of the gold from the successful transactions on yet more adornments, to give thanks to the gods.

One place in particular benefitted from this largesse. The 400-plus desert caves of Dunhaung, which have fabulous paintings on the walls, were rediscovered early in the last century by foreign archaeologists. They were amazed by what they found: the dry desert air and covered-up entranceways had left the caves intact, pretty much the same as they were a thousand years early.

Inside were priceless silk scrolls adorned with intricate calligraphy, unique relics of a bygone era. The archaeologist-adventurers filled trunks with the artefacts - often damaging the paintings and carvings in their frantic rush -- and carted them home by camel train to the West.

But despite the desecration, enough remains to dazzle contemporary tourists, whether it is in Dunhuang, or at the Bezelik Thousand Buddha Caves just outside Turpan. In fact the oasis town is a veritable treasure trove of ancient history: close by are the surprisingly intact cities of Jiaohe and Gaochang, once thriving centres that welcomed people of different religions and nationalities.

Gushing water from the Tian Shan mountain range was diverted into a cleverly- engineered irrigation system. Plentiful water allowed residents to reap rich harvests of grapes and melons, with the surplus exported to towns throughout China.

Not all the Silk Road oasis towns survived to the present day. Some were buried by the shifting sands, lost for ever, while others crumbled and fell into disrepair. This region was the furthest outpost of the Great Wall, the amazing structure designed to keep out barbarian would-be invaders.

The Far West of China has many well-preserved examples of civilisations long gone. The city of Yinchuan was once the capital of a mysterious 11th century kingdom which, to this day, has a strong Islamic influence. The king, in the extravagant manner of the time, built 72 tombs for himself.

In days gone by, the safest and sturdiest form of transport was the camel, the two-humped Gobi Desert beast that can go for weeks without water. It is still popular, used for both work and leisure purposes. A dawn camel-ride into the Gobi Desert, up and over the delicately-lit dunes, allows visitors to have an authentic taste of Silk Road life.

The silk that gave the road its name remains popular. Few people leave without acquiring some kind of silk-made garment, or, perhaps, a carved piece of jade from one of the master craftsmen en route. Another alternative is to visit the richly-stocked bazaars of the desert region, colourful and vibrant places which sell everything the desert-dweller could ever need...