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Two
of the world's great religions - Islam and Buddhism
- have co-existed for thousands of centuries along the
old Silk Road, each leaving monuments and buildings
of staggering beauty and enriching the culture of successive
Chinese dynasties.
The
religion of Islam generally discourages construction
of brash or bold places of worship - simplicity is the
norm - but the builders of old took liberties within
that framework. In the ancient capital of Xian, the
city-centre mosque is a work of wooden art; a series
of delightful courtyards inter-connect, leading up to
the main place of worship. Non-believers are welcome
to stroll in its ample grounds, drinking in the atmosphere
of serenity and tranquility.
Several
other mosques along the Silk Road route also have distinctive
designs. In Xining, the main Islamic place of worship
is strongly influenced by the more flamboyant Chinese
architectural style, the only building of its kind in
the country.
Close
to the oasis town of Turpan is a mosque of gorgeous
simplicity that has survived for hundreds of years.
The Emin minaret is built of local sandstone in the
simple local Uygur style and, when seen against a deep
blue sky and fading late afternoon sun, is an architectural
work of staggering beauty.
Islam
was founded in the sixth century, by the prophet Mohammed,
and gradually spread east, reaching China by land, from
the Central Asian States, and by sea from ships that
called into the eastern ports of Guangzhou and Fuzhou
in the ninth century. Its popularity was helped when
the ruler Hulega, a descendant of the great warrior
Genghis Khan, who ruled most of the Central Asian area
in the 11th century, adopted Islam as the national religion.
Islam
is part of China's rich cultural heritage which has
been assimilated and accepted over the centuries, enriching
the religious and ethnic tapestry of the country. Traces
of ancient Islamic settlements can be found in various
parts of China, particularly in the Far West of the
country where the religion and culture of these Central
Asian people thrives.
The
Uygur people in Xinjiang Province, thought to be of
Turkish descent, practise a liberal-leaning style of
Islam. The Uygurs like nothing better than a large-scale
party; a wedding or family celebration is an excuse
for young women to dress in rich red dresses, and the
men to don their finest embroidered waistcoats. The
singing and dancing at these fun celebrations can go
on until the early hours of the morning.
The
Uygur people are known for being warm-hearted and hospitable.
Wander around the bazaars of Urumqi or Kashgar and stall-holders
will offer samples of grapes, nuts and lamb kebabs.
Richly decorated carpets, jewel-encrusted knives and
bright scarves are for sale at other stalls.
Although
the Islamic and Buddhist cultures lived side by side
there was little inter-marriage, with the notable exception
of the famed beauty Abakh Hoja, who became a prized
concubine of Manchu Emperor Qinlong.
There
are other pockets of Islam followers in the far west
of China - the Kazakhs, who graze their sheep along
the steep banks of the beautiful Heavenly Lake follow
the religion, as do many people in the town where the
Tibetan Buddhist stronghold of Ta'er is located. This
very place, known for the artistic creativity of its
Yellow Hat sect followers, is where the Dalai Lama spent
his early years.
It
also has settlements of Huis descendants of Arabian
merchants who spread out all over China from the seaports
of Fuzhou and Guangzhou and are still prominent devotees
of the Islamic religion.
Mutual
respect and tolerance means there is generally little
conflict. Indeed, when faced with the sheer beauty of
parts of this region a harmonious mood tends to prevail.
The vast expanse of Qinghai Lake with its endless sky
and outer fringe of plain and snowy mountains, acts
as a spiritual uplift for followers of all faiths.
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